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My involvement with making hand planes began when I bought a Lee Valley & VERITAS #62-1/2 and a 4-1/2 smoother. There were things that I modified, such as the handles and the means of fixing the knob and cap. I liked the way the bevel-up blade on the 62-1/2 worked and this prompted me to make a smoother plane using double dovetails.
Since making my first plane, I began gathering information on different plane styles and requirements for good planes. I am long time member of the Knots Forum at Fine Woodworking where I could gather information on features of the plane, desired and preferred by makers of fine furniture.
At the time of making that first plane I knew of hardly any plane maker, let alone their web sites. I had seen Norris type planes in the flesh, but only pictures of dovetailed planes. From knife making experience I know that the fine wood, brass and steel is a seductive combination.
Since seeing Karl Holtey’s website and planes he displays there, I would like to be at his level of craftsmanship. I have shown him pictures of my work and intend to liaise with him in the future.
I use gauge plate for the sole. It is obtainable in accurately ground stock. In the future I plan to experiment with hot rolled bright mild steel for the soles.
I use brass plate for the sides. This is the cartridge brass type alloy which is good for peining. Brass for the bed and knobs, bronze for the cap, tool steel for the knob stud and cross bar and adjuster stem. I use stainless machine screws for fixing bed.
For the wood I like to use Imbuia when it has dark figured grain, Rhodesian Teak, Afromozia, Muninga, and in the future I would like to use some of the New Zealand woods.
I am definitely not of the hammer, hacksaw, file, and shifting spanner brigade. I have two smallish metal lathes, one of which has a milling head attached - it is the Emco Super Eleven. I also have a crude mill-drill which is good for roughing out. I avoid hacksaws and files as much as possible. I have a small band saw which I have pullied down to speeds suitable for cutting brass and bronze, the same saw driven via a reduction gear box also cuts steels. It is a woodworking band saw but so far has been able to withstand the extra tensions required for metal cutting. I cut dovetails using mainly the Emco mill and the band saw which allows me to retain the classic look rather than those cnc type dovetails. I still have to file the flair on the sockets by hand. I do dovetails machining with an end mill/drill. Other machines are my antique South Bend lathe and home made belt grinder (not belt sander), my disk sander on the outboard of my Wadkin lathe and an adapted edge sander.
I have spent a lot of time making small tools and modifications specifically to help with plane making. There is also the need to see more acutely so I found a head loupe to be very useful. My favorite measuring instrument is the digital caliper and I made a base that attaches to the stem, facilitating accurate depth measurement.
I enjoy good quality tools.
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